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Ingredient Science6 min read

5 ingredients hiding in your moisturizer that trigger breakouts

The FDA doesn't regulate the term 'non-comedogenic'. Brands self-certify, and they're often wrong. We've scanned over a thousand 'safe for acne-prone skin' products and roughly a third of them contain at least one ingredient with a comedogenicity rating of 3 or higher. These five are the ones we see most often.

  1. 1

    Check what you already own in under 10 seconds

    Before you read the rest of this list, take a photo of your current moisturizer's ingredient list. A scanner cross-references every ingredient against pore-clogging and irritation databases and shows you which ones to worry about. Beats Googling each name one by one.

  2. 2

    Isopropyl Myristate (and its cousins)

    Comedogenicity rating: 5/5. Used to make creams feel silky and absorb fast. Also used as an industrial solvent. If you see isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, or myristyl myristate, same family, same problem. Common in 'lightweight' lotions and many drugstore moisturizers.

  3. 3

    Coconut Oil and its derivatives

    Comedogenicity rating: 4/5. Wonderful for hair, terrible for most faces. The tricky part is the derivatives: cocos nucifera oil, sodium cocoate, and coco-caprylate all show up in 'clean beauty' formulas marketed straight at acne-prone skin.

  4. 4

    Algae Extract

    Comedogenicity rating: 5/5. Marketed as a hydrating superfood ingredient. For oily and acne-prone skin it's one of the most reliable triggers we see. If you've broken out from a 'soothing' Korean essence, check the bottom of the ingredient list for algae or seaweed extract.

  5. 5

    Lanolin and Acetylated Lanolin

    Comedogenicity rating: 4-5/5. Hands down the best occlusive for chapped lips. Hands down a disaster for most faces. Often hidden in 'rich' night creams and barrier-repair balms aimed at dry skin. Petrolatum is a safer alternative.

  6. 6

    Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (and SLES)

    Not comedogenic, but it strips your barrier, which triggers compensatory oil production within days. Found in foaming cleansers labeled 'deep clean' and 'oil control'. Ironically, the cleanser is the reason your face is oily by 2pm.

You don't need to memorize every comedogenic ingredient. You need a fast way to check labels before you buy, and an audit of the bottles already on your shelf. Do both this week and you'll cut new breakouts faster than any active you can add.

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